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Santa Luzia (Tavira) – first two months

  • Juliet Haydock
  • March 11, 2023
  • 3 minute read
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Life in Santa Luzia has settled down into a comfortable rhythm. The weather has been gorgeous (except when Nicky and Paul visited at the beginning of March, unfortunately). Clive and Sue had more luck.

I spend a lot of time dog-walking. My standard walk is to set off along the Atlantic Coast trail (a few hundred metres from my flat) through orange, lemon and avocado orchards and flower-strewn hedgerows. Small flocks of racing pigeons circle tirelessly above the local allotments.

I like to think the pigeons belong to the local fishermen who fish all night and knock off at 6 am. Their upside-down days involve a few drinks after work and I sometimes come across small groups of them well into their cups by 10 or 11 am.

Here are a few flower pics from my walks. These were taken back in February.

More and more flowers are coming out every day and the air has been full of the scent of orange blossom for weeks. I’m told it’s a bad place for hay fever sufferers, but I can’t get enough of it.

One day, Lottie was off the lead on the Ruta Atlantica, when she suddenly wriggled through a fence and gave chase to about eight indignant peacocks and a peahen. Luckily they could fly and took refuge on a nearby telegraph pole.

The longest version of my dog walk involves taking the boardwalk across the marsh towards Barril beach, and completing the last section over the dunes. I’m allowed to take Lottie on the beach, but will have to stop when the tourist season gets under way.

Endless beach and the Atlantic Ocean.

Then it’s time for a rest at the beach bar and the quintessential Portuguese breakfast: galão and pastel de nata, plus a sprinkle of cinnamon.

Next to the bar, you can see Barril Beach’s famous landmark, the anchor cemetery.

Then I walk back along the sea front past the emerald green coastal marsh, colourful fishing boats and people digging for cockles or clams at low tide.

If I haven’t been to the beach bar, I drop in for um galão at the padaria or bakery. Breakfast costs half the price of the beach bar and it’s the most popular cafe on the front.

I’m aware that the whole place will be full of tourists in a few weeks, but at the moment it’s nice to enjoy the life of a working fishing port.

I’m beginning to appreciate the traditional housing more and more, whether tiled or re-plastered and painted white with bright contrasting doors, windows and decorations.

I haven’t really explored the good restaurants yet but have found the snacks in the cafes to be ok – though definitely not on a par with Italy.

I’ve sampled a downright odd snack that turns out to be a Portuguese favourite: the Francesinha. It’s a large sandwich filled with layers of meat, cold cuts and fresh sausages, topped with cheese, swimming in gravy, and surrounded by chips.

On the social front, I enjoy the Clube de Tavira jazz and jam session on a Thursday night.

Clube de Tavira, and my new bike

Jack came along with me, borrowed a guitar and did three songs.

Last week I went along for a trial session at the Pink Flamingo Croquet and Social Club. I really enjoyed it, and especially the lunch afterwards – 3 course for €10. The club meets for croquet and lunch twice a week and organises various other social events and tournaments through the year.

I’m very active here. I’ve joined the beautifully clean and spacious Municipal Swimming Pool (which costs the princely sum of €1.90 per visit but will be free when I get my resident’s card).

I bought a bike from Abilio Bikes and find it easy and safe to get around everywhere on two wheels.

I’m going to a Pilates class organised by Algarve Osteopathy. My teacher Tomas Bittner is really good and takes no prisoners!

Facebook really has come into its own for connecting with other people and attending social events. I could be at a lunch, dinner, talk or event every night of the week.

All the other expats are in the same position as me and eager to meet up. Tomorrow afternoon, for example, I’m meeting a fellow solo female dog owner who’s here on a Digital Nomad visa and we’re going to explore a new dog-friendly beach.

As far as officialdom goes, Lottie is doing better than me. Thanks to the excellent Tavivet, she now has a Portuguese passport. Her chip is registered in the Portuguese dog database too.

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Juliet Haydock

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